Nepal: A homecoming journey of Research and Discovery

By Hanshika Neupane

As an international student, embarking on a research trip to Nepal, which is also home to me is truly an experience to write about. As I write this blog post from the heart of Nepal, with the hustle and bustle of the city, the ringing of bells from nearby Temples, the chitter and chatter of neighbors greeting each other loudly, and fruits and vegetables vendors out in the street selling the freshest produce right outside of our homes, I am filled with a sense of both familiarity and strangeness. After spending a year studying in the United States, coming back to my homeland has been an extraordinary experience. When I first landed, this place felt equally foreign. I had almost forgotten the smell of the air, the chaos in the streets, the noise, and familiarity in people’s faces. I had missed being able to talk in my mother tongue. As a FGLI student, having spent all my life in Nepal, I waited all my life to escape from this chaos. But almost a year later, when I was presented with the opportunity to return to Nepal for research, I couldn’t have been more excited.

Along with four of other SARC members traveling to Nepal, we embarked on this academic as well as cultural experience. The first two days after our arrival in Kathmandu was full of showing my friends around the city. As a local person to Kathmandu, I knew I had to take them to my favorite spots around to give them the most authentic experience. Be it taking them to Swayambhunath also known as monkey temple to witness monkeys eating ice cream and sipping on boba tea, or leading them through the bustling streets of Thamel to experience the lively nightlife, or altering the menu for “life-changing momos”, I was committed to giving them a genuine taste of Kathmandu.

Our research trip was an intense and enlightening experience, deeply rooted in the exploration of women’s issues in Nepal. As five women researching various aspects of women’s lives, we found ourselves frequently bonding over our shared experiences of growing up in South and Southeast Asian households. These conversations added a personal dimension to our work, enriching our understanding of the cultural nuances that shape women’s experiences in the region. These conversations only further enhanced my passion for the research topic I am looking at. Despite being born in Nepal and having an intrinsic understanding of the caste system and its pervasive hierarchy, talking to experts on history and sociology has been profoundly eye-opening. The caste system in Nepal is deeply ingrained, with the term “Dalit” referring to the lowest social group in this hierarchy, historically known as Shudra and often labeled as untouchable. I am passionate to explore the Dalit movement post-1990, following the restoration of democracy, focusing specifically on Dalit women who constitute 15% of the population. This demographic has often been excluded from historical narratives, particularly in the context of political upheavals.

Throughout our trip, we had the privilege of meeting with a diverse array of experts, professors, and officers from various UN departments, including UN Women and UNICEF. These interactions provided us with valuable insights into the systemic issues affecting women in Nepal, particularly those from marginalized communities. I had the opportunity to visit organizations and speak with anthropologists and authors who work heavily with digital archives and repositories. One of the most impactful experiences was coming across a photobook that collates photographs of Dalit lives and resistance spanning the last six decades across Nepal. This powerful volume, enriched with essays exploring the economic, social and political dimensions of Dalit struggles, highlights the historical presence and contributions of Dalits in Nepali public life. The conversations I had with the authors and translators of this book has further increased my interest in the role of visual media in advocating for social justice and definitely enriched my research on the lived experiences and resilience of Dalit women in Nepal.

This research trip has just not been about academic inquiry, it has also been about the commitment in whatever tiniest ways of rectifying historical imbalances and contributing to ongoing efforts towards justice and equity in Nepal.

Journalism and Freedom of the Press in Mexico

By Ariadna Condezo Trinidad

The group representing the Latin American Committee (LAC) arrived in Mexico City on Monday May 20th. We have diverse research projects topics ranging from the revitalization of the Chinampas in Xochimilco to labor migration. My topic is about the role of civil society organizations in protecting and promoting freedom of the press in Mexico. According to Reporters Without Borders, Mexico is the most dangerous country without a declared war to be a journalist. In 2012, the government launched the Federal Mechanism for the Protection of Human Rights Defenders and Journalists —as a reaction to the demands by the civil society—; nevertheless, the mechanism has fallen short in ensuring their protection due to funding, staff shortage, and delays in processes. In order to collect information for my research project, I have been interviewing staff members of civil society organizations, such as Propuesta Cívica, a United Nations office in Mexico, Amnesty International, Article 19, and Comisión Nacional de Derechos Humanos. In my interviews with members from civil society organizations, I got to understand deeper the problem of freedom of expression of journalists, potential solutions, and the vital role that journalists play in the country.


Most of the violations of journalists’ human rights happen outside the capital. They take place in other states due to reports of journalists about corruption from government officials and organized crime. Without journalists reporting these cases, these situations would remain in the dark and the population would be unaware of the sociopolitical dynamics taking place in other parts of the country. Thus, journalist work is essential in Mexico. However, it comes with a lot of risks and challenges. Some of the challenges include that the job is not well remunerated and it is time consuming. The risks come when journalists are being threatened due to their work, disappearances, physical attacks, murder attempts, and ultimately homicides. Among the civil society organizations it is clear that the Federal Mechanism needs to be strengthened. Currently, the Federal Mechanism receives more cases than it can handle. It takes a lot of time to process cases and some organizations question the risk analysis the mechanism does in order to decide whether to provide protection to a journalist. The most extreme measure of the mechanism is the extraction of the journalist and sometimes the family from their place of residence to relocate them in another part of the country. Usually the chosen place for relocation is Mexico City as it is believed that there is less violence against journalists there than in other states. One thing the mechanism can improve is the monitoring of the families, especially in the psychological aspect. Relocating from your home comes with an emotional toll that is ignored by the mechanism. Families leave behind the future plans they had, their workplaces, the comfort of their house to seek safety. Some civil society organizations are committed to closing the gap in psychological attention by providing free resources and free therapy sessions with the families affected.


Another item that the mechanism does not address is the prevention of attacks on journalists. In the sphere, the civil society agrees that the government needs to create other organisms that are in charge of preventing the attacks. Adding a prevention measure to the current Federal Mechanism can play against journalists since it will require the mechanism to expand the resources they have in tackling more problems. This will lead to more problems and it will cause the mechanism to fail to tackle both the prevention and reaction measures. One interesting thing I learn from my conversations with leaders of civil society organizations is that there are some states that would like to create laws for the protection of journalists. However, there is a mistrust between local leaders and journalists since a lot of the attacks against journalists are originated by government officials. Thus, journalists do not trust any policy that local governments propose. Another point that is worth mentioning is how Andres Manuel Lopez Obrador’s administration has dealt with freedom of the press. AMLO’s administration has harshly criticized journalists that do not align with its policies labeling them as enemies. Furthermore, the administration targeted Article 19, an international organization with a presence in Mexico that defends freedom of expression, and accused them of wanting to impose the ideology in the country. After the accusation, the organization started receiving threats. A general concern among the civil society is that the civic spaces in the country have been closing down, not only in terms of press freedom but also in the matter of other human rights. They are unsure how this will develop in the following months as Mexico is currently undergoing presidential elections, but they hope the situation will get better.

The Study of Migration in Mexico City: A Journey of Inspiration

by Dzheveira Karimova

The research trip to Mexico City was an immense success, both for my academic goals and personal growth. Throughout my stay, I was captivated by the city’s vibrant culture and the warmth of its people. The continuous friendliness, hospitality, and kindness we experienced—from the locals at the markets to the individuals I interviewed—were truly heartwarming.

My research centers on migration trends to Mexico City, examining its role as a crucial hub for refugees and migrants en route to the United States. Additionally, I investigate the resources available to these individuals and the contributions of the government, NGOs, and civil society in supporting them.

During my trip to Mexico City, I had the honor of interviewing esteemed professors, researchers, and activists at local universities. I am deeply grateful to Dr. Tigau, Professor Diaz, and Dr. Zavala de Cosío for meeting with me at the National Autonomous University of Mexico (UNAM) and El Colegio de México. Our conversations were incredibly informative, shedding light on current migration trends, the growing impact of the city’s water crisis on migration attitudes, the effects of the CBP One application, and the influence of both Mexican presidential debates and the upcoming US elections on migration policies and trends.

Mexico City afforded me incredible opportunities to connect with esteemed professionals and inspiring individuals in the field of migration. After taking a chance and emailing the general address of the Office of the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees in Mexico, I was thrilled to receive a reply from Emilio Gonzalez, Senior Protection Assistant, and Alejandra Carillo, Head of the Mexico City Field Unit, regarding an interview. It was an honor to speak with such experts at the forefront of addressing migration issues in the city. Through our discussion, I gained valuable insights into recent migration from Venezuela, Central America, Haiti, and Afghanistan. Learning about UNHCR’s efforts in Mexico City, including their support for local organizations and advocacy within the government to increase awareness and support for migration challenges, was an extraordinary opportunity and is extremely valuable for my research.

The highlight of my research trip was visiting La Casa Tochan, the first migrant shelter in Mexico City. During my visit to this remarkable shelter, I had the privilege of interviewing Gabriela Hernández, the director and coordinator. Founded in 2011 due to the city’s lack of support for migrants, the shelter emerged from a collective effort by various organizations to provide accommodation and assistance when the government failed to do so. Gabriela shared insights into the growing migrant crisis in the city and the government’s inadequate response in opening new shelters to accommodate the increasing migrant and refugee population. We also discussed the shelter’s dynamics, with refugees arriving from Central America, Venezuela, Haiti, Afghanistan, Kurdistan, and China, and how the dedicated staff, including nurses, psychologists, and lawyers, manage to assist them despite language barriers. The visit to the shelter was truly inspiring. Conversations with Gabriela, the shelter staff, and volunteers were not only touching but also highly informative. Their dedication and perseverance in helping refugees in the city, despite the lack of funding and resources, is truly remarkable.

I am immensely grateful for the opportunity to conduct such vital research in Mexico City, and I am deeply thankful for this life-changing experience.

First Impressions of Nepal

By Ishika Gupta

On May 15th, our South Asian Regional Committee (SARC) group left Boston for Nepal. Though excited, the five of us were filled with anxieties about our trip – with a 17 hour layover in Doha, we were in for approximately 35 hours of travel. Though I was nervous, while in Doha our group bonded quickly, and when we landed in Nepal, it was clear that we felt comfortable with each other and our minds were more at ease.

My first impression of Nepal was characterized by the hospitality we saw right outside the airport and during the first days of our trip. Hanshika, one of the members of our group and a Nepali, ran into her school friend, Ayushka, on the flight. She was immediately very friendly to all of us, and waited patiently for the entire group as we spent time applying and paying for visas, and standing in the immigration line. Ayushka offered to take pictures of our group, and as soon as we stepped out of the airport, we saw her family waiting enthusiastically for her arrival. As Hanshika spoke with the cab drivers, Ayushka’s family also welcomed us to Nepal and wished us well.

Though we did have a difficult start to our trip – having to change hotels – the Nepali hospitality continued throughout the first days of our trip. As we ate breakfast the first morning in our new hotel, we chatted with the owner as she welcomed us and gave us recommendations on what to see nearby. Hanshika, though a member of our group, has become our wonderful tour guide – showing us all the best spots, explaining Nepali customs to us, and answering our silly questions. We are also so excited to meet her family over dinner! So, even though I was anxious in the days prior to our travel, due to the supportive dynamic of our group and the hospitality I have experienced in Nepal, I am feeling more stress-free and excited about continuing our journey. Having heard stories about my parents’ travels to Nepal growing up, I have wanted to visit this country for so long, and am incredibly grateful for the opportunity to do so.

On our first two days here in Kathmandu, we explored the city, and even took a day trip to Nagarkot and Bhaktapur. Since it was a weekend, we were unable to conduct any interviews and instead took the time to become acquainted with our surroundings. On our first day, we walked around the Durbar Square in Patan, strolling through the countless shops and admiring the beautiful architecture. We were able to step inside a couple of temples, where we observed the intricate carvings, as well as religious statues decorated with fabrics and designs of numerous colors. Then, we stepped into a small museum, which housed several religious artifacts and exhibited the history of the square, as told by Henry Abrose Olfield, who was a British doctor and artist in the British residence in Kathmandu from 1850-1863. Afterwards, we had a discussion on the duality between this history, that of such a prominent landmark, being told by a British man, while so many stolen Nepali artifacts sit in British museums. After this and a quick lunch, we went to one of the most famous tourist attractions in Nepal – the Swoyambhu Machachaitya. Here, we saw many of the known colorful Nepali flags and temple, seen in many postcards and media across the world. Walking around, we saw the view of the entire city of Kathmandu. Especially at this location, I felt so appreciative of this opportunity! On our second day here, we took a day trip outside of the city, going to Nagarkot and Bhaktapur. In Nagarkot, we were able to see a scenic view of the mountains and enjoy a delicious lunch. Afterwards, we were able to walk around the town of Bhaktapur – where we were able to view the former royal palace and temple. We also walked around through the markets, and all bought postcards of important landmarks we had seen thus far.

Overall, though we haven’t formally begun our research, these first couple days have given us the opportunity to become acquainted with our surroundings in a more meaningful way, something that will most certainly aid us in our further academic pursuits. I look forward to my first interview tomorrow, which will be with Economic Development Professor Binayak Krishna Thapa at the Kathmandu University School of Arts, as I seek to explore my research topic: the exclusion of informal workers from Nepal’s social protection systems.

Agricultural Practices of the Chinampas in Xochimilco

by Victor Vazquez

Chinampas are artificial islands that persisted in the Valley of Mexico for Millenia, the Aztecs came to the valley around the 13th to 14th century AD and mass produced chinampas to feed their empire. Chinampas were built by creating an underwater fence in a rectangular formation in a shallow lake area, and then filling the underwater fence with organic matter until it reached the desired height above the water level. These chinampas were used for intensive agriculture, with some 7 harvests per year at peak functionality. This form of agriculture persisted because of its high yield sustainable farming model. Fertile moist mud was brought from the bottom of the lake in order to reliably germinate seeds. The technique that the chinamperos (chinampa farmers) used to create nurseries was taking the mud and flattening it out in a 4in thick slab, the mud was cut into cubes and then they made a hole in the mud cube with their fingers and put the seed inside. This type of nursery is shown in the image below.

Chinampa nursery germinating lettuce

In order to get a better understanding of the current state of chinampas, I went to 2 organizations in Mexico City to look at the chinampas in Xochimilco. The 2 organizations were Olintalli and ChinampasXochimilco as shown in the images below. 

ChinampasXochimilco Banner (left) and Olintalli Banner/Presentation (right)

The main form of tourism that occurs in Xochimilco are the boat tours and party boats. The boat tours, which I chose, are informational tours that are meant to bring awareness to the problems happening in the chinampas of Xochimilco. The money is used to support the chinamperos that still farm on the chinampas and make a living from it. The party boats on the other hand are another issue that the chinampas face, since the tourists litter the water with plastic bottles and other toxic trash. The tourism allows money to flow within Xochimilco, but comes at an environmental cost, with a solution being difficult since money is necessary to build more traditional nurseries and other water treatment structures within Xochimilco, as well as food, since only a fraction of the chinampas available are used for food production. The image below shows an illegal settlement with trash and decreased water level.

Polluted chinampa with decreasing water levels

Some of the problems that Marco Polo Tellez Orozco (president of Olintalli) and Sara Sandoval mentioned were that many of the chinampas are being abandoned by the chinamperos in favor of moving to Mexico City or migrating to the US for a better life. This has led to illegal land selling, since proving ownership of the chinampas is next to impossible unless it has been passed down from prior generations of chinamperos. Also, many illegal structures are being built on the chinampas for families in need of shelter or for companies that want to capitalize on the tourism within the canals of the chinampas. The main problems that the chinampas in Xochimilco face is the lack of and quality of water. At one point in the 1900’s, the Mexican government permitted the release of sewage into the canals in an attempt to maintain the water levels. Sara told me that there are also dams built in order to keep the water level high in the touristy spots, which leads other canals and chinampas to suffer with a lack of water. Without a sufficient water level, the roots of the ahuejote trees that border the chinampas are exposed, which leads to strain on the plant and an inevitable death. The image below shows how much the water levels have decreased in this area, with the top of the underwater fence showing.

Decreased water levels with underwater fence exposed

To combat these issues, both Marco and Sara are involved in going back to the traditional farming methods that were employed by the indigenous people of Xochimilco. The traditional mud nurseries with the straw ground cover in order to retain the moisture in the ground. They are growing different varieties of lettuce, kale, corn, garlic, beets, peppermint, sunflower, and other types of vegetables and flowers. All of the excess organic matter is put into a compost heap where it is then used for the next succession of plants. In the ChinampasXochimilco chinampas, some of the organic matter was put into a black plastic bag, where the gas from the decaying matter was used to cook food using gas pipes and valves. There were also water filtration holes that used a plastic sheet with water lilies as the biofiltering plant and the clean water would be used for irrigation as opposed to directly from the main canals, since the water quality is poor. Both the Olintalli and ChinampasXochimilco chinampas had biofilters installed from UNAM, which is the largest public university in Mexico. The little canal that had the biofilters had clear water, as shown in this image below. 

Clean chinampa canal water from biofilters

Going to the chinampas in person was amazing, with the beautiful views, flowers, and colorful boats. The chinampas themselves were beautiful and had weeds and flowers interwoven throughout the land. The organizations created sustainable structures for living and cooking which shows how well they can adapt to the ever increasing urbanization of Mexico City. As long as there are people who care about the chinampas and the value they hold culturally and agriculturally, the chinampas can slowly make a comeback from the disturbed water table and pollution from Mexico City and regain some semblance of its former glory. 

Beautiful chinampa scenery

Indigenous Languages and Cultures in Mexico

By Gabriela Perez

My parents are disconnected from their indigenous roots, but the trips to my parents’ childhood homes and seeing my grandparents’ and great grandparents’ portraits make our indigenous roots undeniable. I find it greatly important to preserve pre-Hispanic ancestry, especially because I am so disconnected. That is why when I saw that LAC was going to Mexico City (CDMX) for personal investigations, I leaped at the opportunity. 

Mexico City is the largest city in North America, so I knew it would be a hub of resources and information that could kickstart my investigations. Although CDMX is not the region with the largest Mexican indigenous population presence (which would be Oaxaca and Yucatán), there is an astonishing presence of indigenous cultures in and around the city. There are 55 indigenous languages spoken in the city alone. 

When comparing the prevalence of indigenous culture in Mexico to the United States, I sat in awe at the difference in the preservation of languages, with 68 live indigenous Mexican language groups which consist of over 300 distinct linguistic variants. This is especially critical when considering how vital language is to culture. I felt an immense need to understand the reasons behind this wonderful preservation of languages and what makes Mexico stand out in such a unique manner. I was particularly interested in understanding the role of institutions with the preservation and attitudes from indigenous and non indigenous individuals towards indigenous cultures. 

I spoke with a professor who works in the indigenous education department at the National Pedagogical University (UPN) in CDMX to gather more insight on what space indigeneity holds in Mexico. UPN is a university that dedicates itself to teaching others how to teach. The indigenous education department, in particular, works towards creating a space/context where others feel compelled to speak the language. She explained to me that this program is not linguistically focused but rather keen on getting the indigenous languages “out there” because the prevalence of the languages is in a state of emergency. More work has been done to maintain tangible indigenous cultural manifestations such as embroidery than intangible manifestations such as language because it can be commercialized. So, more work still has to be done to preserve indigenous intangible culture and to gain more support from institutions such as the university and government. I will continue talking to individuals from other institutions such as the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) and National Institute of Indigenous Peoples (INPI) to gather a fuller idea of the situation of indigenous cultural preservation efforts in and around Mexico City.   

Learning about the place indigenous presence holds in a pluricultural country like Mexico has taught me how important it is to maintain a sense of self regardless of the more dominant society it may preside in. It also highlights the importance of making space for one’s culture.