Smells and Colors of the Market

by Belen, Nelson and Liam

Belén Arbelaez

On Tuesday, September 3rd at around 7pm, I stepped foot for the first time in a Thai market. Instantly overwhelmed by the colors and smells we stopped to look around and admire. There was chaos yet peace. Fresh fruit, raw fish, woven textiles, spices surrounded us, tables filled to the brim with food and clothes, yet everything was organized. Cumin, pepper, chili powder, turmeric, mustard seed, ginger, all compressed into neat little plastic squares. Ceramic baby elephants lined up, each with different vibrant colors and details. Rows of dragonfruit and mangostine surrounded us. While there was chaos, it was natural chaos, it felt as though people fit into their place at the market, tourists admiring, vendors selling and locals bargaining. Days later, in our  Southeast Asian course, we read an article which allowed us to learn about the importance of the sense of taste and smell yet also the way these senses are ignored. When I made my way back to the market, I appreciated the smells, I took them in with acceptance and respect.

Nelson Chen: Dragonfruits, burning incense, and tropical rain

From the hints of seaweed and marine life that drift in from Boston Harbor Sea Port to the invigorating aroma of freshly sliced dragonfruits and the smell of burning incense combined with the earthly petrichor that lingers after a sudden tropical rain, I felt a symphony of scents unfold through the bustling markets of Chiang Mai. After a 22-hour long flight from the Boston Logan Airport to Chiang Mai International Airport, I was finally here. (This felt so surreal!). I’ve only read and seen small clips of this place on my TikTok For You Page, probably because of my browsing history filled with unhinged searches like “fun things to do in Chiang Mai,” “Chiang Mai night markets,” and obviously, “must try foods in Chiang Mai.” But absolutely no video clip could have ever captured the depth of the moment I was in. Here, I knew the experiences were much more vivid and much more alive. The market was like a breathing canvas, painted with the essence of Thai locals alongside their stories and relentless energy that thrived on the convergence of cultures and religions. At that moment, I realized that I wasn’t just walking through a market––I was walking through what I would be calling home for the next three months.

To my friends, family, and loved ones back home, I can’t wait to spend countless number of hours sharing my experiences and stories with you guys! Our adventures are just beginning!

Liam Ferguson

I had only ever been to farmer’s markets. I had only ever really been to farmer’s markets in Memphis before coming to Chiang Mai, and that was kind of what I expected. The farmer’s market I would usually go to back home was run only during the summers, and was set up in a parking lot downtown. For the most part, though, I enjoyed going there. There were people selling fruits and vegetables, as well as those who called themselves “less traditional farmers” selling handmade jewelry, and even honey farmers who would give you as many free samples as you wanted. It was somewhere that I had memories of visiting as a kid, and a place I always saw as a source of joy. So when we went to visit the local market in Chiang Mai on our third day, I (sort of naively) expected something similar to the farmer’s market I was familiar with back home. This was not the case. When walking towards the market, I didn’t really see it coming. I just turned a corner, and then I was just sort of… in it. Looking around me, I was a little confused for a second. Then I realized. This was ALL the market. It looked like it stretched for miles. Endless numbers of stalls selling everything you could possibly want. There were stalls selling clothes, coffees, juices squeezed right in front of you, foods better than what you could find at any restaurant, and a wider variety of fruits than I had seen in any supermarket. But the most noticeable detail about the market was the smell. It was almost like there was an invisible barrier protecting the market’s smell from escaping into the rest of the world. As soon as you walked in, you were immediately hit with the smell of meat being freshly grilled, fruits you didn’t even know existed, and the Thai phenomenon called “Tiger Balm”, which can be used to cure pretty much anything. In our History of Southeast Asia class, we talked about how the culture of smell impacts southeast Asia, and how this differs from the western world, where smell is relatively unimportant. With this in mind, I can look back on our trip to the market and recognize that the market’s scent created a feeling of adventure and curiosity to explore. This feeling I think encapsulated not only our motivation to spend hours roaming the market in search of nothing in particular, but will encapsulate our experience and exploration of Thailand as a whole.

Originally posted here.

Chiang Mai: Home Away From Home

by Vorleak, Michela and Amos

Where I [Vorleak] call home is situated close to the equator line, leaning more towards the Southeast of Asia, to name Cambodia. Home for me [Michela] is 20 miles north of Boston in Massachusetts suburbia. For me [Amos], from Narok, Kenya, the beauty of a place lies in how comfortable you are in it.

Chiang Mai is new to us, not so familiar as our hometowns and home countries, but so many of the sights and smells we interact with bring us back.

For me, [Michela], it is the plants along all the streets we wander through—the purple ones I grow in my living room, ivy growing up different restaurant fronts, bamboo shoots along the side of our program house. It’s being in the kitchen in the mornings, prepping breakfasts with each other and doing the dishes, and sharing meals at a big table which always has leftovers. We are less than a week in, but the language is already beginning to sound familiar—we greet & thank people without stumbling over our words.

For me, [Vorleak], Chiang Mai has reminded me of home through the good mornings and good nights I say to people whenever I enter or exit my room. It’s the smiles on the faces of my peers and instructors I see first thing in the morning that remind me of my parents and siblings. Being able to be in the kitchen and using the condiments we’ve picked up at the markets that smell exactly like home transport me back in ways I could not have imagined.

For me, [Amos], stepping into the program house for the first time, I was scared with how the future would unfold, but still held onto the hope of making worthwhile connections with my peers and finding comfort around them. Looking back a week later, I feel like it’s more than what I expected. I am very much appreciative of every single little moment we have with one another, because every day is a step closer to finding our nirvana.

No matter where our origins lie, we are creating new homes every day. So grateful to be here with these people in this place at this time. We look forward to our many tomorrows.

Love,

Vorleak, Michela, and Amos

Originally posted here.

With love from Chiang Mai: First impressions

by Dani, Jake and Nicolly

The vivid Chiang Mai city welcomed us with its warmth; both from its people and temperature (especially its humidity). No matter where we walk, as soon as we step out of the house, it is sweat-galore. Between signing up to for gym, walking 15,000 steps a day and the amount of water we drink, there is no way that the freshman fifteen will get to us. We wouldn’t have it any other way!

The food. We could write a love letter just about the amazing, incredible food we’ve had so far. From Pad Thai to Pad See Ew and many others, our cohort are delighted by the food. As we walk to get lunch or dinner, at the house or out and about, we have one certainty: it’s gonna be bangin!

You can always count on Chiang Mai to surprise you everyday, be it with beautiful architecture, the cute little cafes (they are everyone!) or the unpredictable traffic – we can’t wait to see what the next coming week holds for us. How the weather is gonna change, all the new dishes we will try, the people we will meet and the new sites we will see.

With love from Chiang Mai,

Nicolly, Jake and Dani

Originally posted here.

From Oslo to Luanda

by María Martinez Meza

On June 23, 2024, I found myself driving through the streets of Luanda, travelling from Luanda International Airport to the apartment I would call home for the next month. Just a few months earlier, I would have been in disbelief if told that I would be interning for the UFOLO Centre for Good Governance. Unsurprisingly, the experience proved to be life-changing. 

The UFOLO Centre for Good Governance is a NGO that aims for the betterment of Angolan society through inclusion, democracy, and responsible governance. Their projects focus on mobility struggles related to education, human rights training within prisons, and active condemnation of corruption.  

Living in Angola while I worked with UFOLO allowed me to immerse myself in the culture and work from a more informed and involved standpoint. In my daily life in Angola, I witnessed drastic wealth disparities caused by corruption, inadequate educational infrastructure, and, above all, the inextinguishable spirit and love for their country among Angolan people. In the UFOLO office, I put my experiences and observations to practice and engaged in conversations about the role of corruption in the state of Angolan society; the impact of the country’s long drawn violent war on the country’s economy; the indispensable role that art plays in the country’s fight for human rights. Participating in this process under the guidance of people who have dedicated their life to Angola, and who are fearless in the face of government backlash, made the experience even more transformative. 

Although my focus was on Angola, this experience also gave me a more nuanced understanding of the struggles faced by the African continent and the Global South as a whole. I compared my experience in Angola with my previous experiences in Tanzania, identifying similarities and differences between their current struggles and examining them in their respective historical contexts. Furthermore, observing the parallels between Angolan struggles and the challenges I grew up facing in El Salvador  deepened my understanding of colonialism, imperialism, and the fight towards self determination. 

A vital part of my experience as an Oslo Scholar was attending the Oslo Freedom Forum. There, I was surrounded by individuals who have devoted themselves to the fight for human rights and democracy, which made me eager to follow in their footsteps. This gave me the push I needed to become more determined in my own fight to denounce the worsening situation in my home country. Not only did the Oslo Freedom Forum introduce me to admirable people, but it also humanised them by allowing me to exist in the same space as they did. Additionally, I connected with a group of passionate and determined peers my age. Suffice it to say, my experience this summer has filled me with a new, brighter, and more irrepressible spark. 

Strategies for Democratic Activism and Global Solidarity

by Imanol Varela

Attending the Oslo Freedom Forum was a transformative experience, deepening my understanding of human rights and democracy. Among the many inspiring sessions, one led by Leopoldo Lopez, the Venezuelan democratic activist, stood out. His discussion focused on the strategies necessary to build and unite global grassroots movements, a topic that resonated deeply with me.


Leopoldo Lopez, a prominent figure in the fight for democracy in Venezuela, shared invaluable insights on mobilizing and sustaining grassroots efforts. He emphasized the importance of storytelling, highlighting how personal narratives can galvanize communities and foster a sense of shared purpose. Lopez argued that grassroots movements thrive when they are rooted in the lived experiences of individuals, making the struggle for democracy relatable and urgent.


A key takeaway from his session was the significance of global solidarity. Lopez underscored the need for activists worldwide to support each other, sharing resources, strategies, and moral support. He called for the creation of international networks that can amplify local efforts and apply pressure on authoritarian regimes from multiple fronts.Lopez also stressed the role of digital platforms in modern activism. He pointed out that social media and other digital tools are crucial for organizing, disseminating information, and connecting with a global audience. However, he cautioned about the importance of digital security to protect activists from surveillance and repression.
Reflecting on Lopez’s discussion, I felt inspired by the power of collective action and the potential of united grassroots movements to effect change. His insights reinforced my commitment to advocating for democracy and human rights, and I left the forum with renewed hope and determination to contribute to this vital cause.

Reflecting on WIIR’s time in Ireland, and Conducting One Last Interview

By Madison Bradford

June 4th was the last day of our trip, with most of us heading out in the early hours of the morning to catch their flights out of Ireland. However, Mika and myself are staying a few days extra to go visit my family, which ended up being quite useful for us. 

In the morning, we said a tearful goodbye to the girls from the trip as they headed out. Though it was sad to see them go, I am happy to say this sadness was only because we all got along so well. Before the trip, most of us had only spoken a few times at meetings and events for WIIR, so I was incredibly grateful for the quick friendship which emerged amongst all the girls. 

After they left, Mika and I had our final interview, with journalist Una Mullally. Lauren Lovelace, an alumna from Tufts, was the one to connect us with Una. Una was actually out of town until late Monday night, so luckily, since Mika and I stayed a little longer, we were able to meet up with her in the afternoon on Tuesday. The meeting went very well – it was interesting to talk to someone who was so well-versed in the social and political climate of Ireland. Moreover, because Una does not work for any specific organization, she was free to say her actual opinions. She was honest with us about issues of discrimination and the housing crisis in Ireland, and went into their causes and possible effects. She also talked for a bit about the United States and explained the unique circumstances of Ireland and how they cause nuanced differences between racism in the US versus Ireland. We ended the conversation by speaking about the women’s rights movement in Ireland, and how she felt that there is a possibility for the right of abortion to eventually become more inclusive in Ireland. For privacy, Una did not have us take photos, but the visit was wonderful and we took loads of notes. 

Now that the trip is over, I am on the train to the countryside. I am incredibly grateful to IGL for the opportunity of this trip. I learned an incredible amount from so many different people, and I made memories that will last forever. Now, I am actually quite excited to go home and get to writing my paper, as I have become more and more informed and inspired this past week.